Costa was looking for an economy base template, along with Janet and John instructions, and myself keen to oblige whilst building Gordon’s controller, only to find I was out of fibreboard and had to resort to the reversed off-cut in the pictures, to form a “template for a template” when new board is obtained this week. It only needs 6 mm along the top edge for the final product, which has been trimmed to minimise cost and also revert back to mounting the two potentiometers in the case, a much prettier solution than the “all hang out” approach I took with Phil’s economy.
It also serves as a test for ultimate in simplicity, building the whole project with 2.5 mm nuts and bolts, a size at least easily available locally. The final product ended up such a perfect fit that it does not even need a bolt to hold it to the left hand case. The blow by blow, after the board is cut out with Dremel and drill:
1. Leave the existing brass tube in the trigger and simply Dremel out a notch at the bottom, including the brass tube, to allow just enough room for the anti wobble nut, which locks the 2.5 mm trigger bearing bolt to the base board.
2. Take two flaps off old braid holders and super glue one each to the front and rear of the trigger, where the trigger will contact the stops. Dead easy although I went a bit further with some nice K&S thin shim sheet from Denkit – cuts with a pair of scissors.
3. Fit the trigger bolt and any wobble nut and slip the trigger on. The tube top normally just a teeny bit longer than the width of the trigger.
4. Very carefully wind on two 2.5 nuts to lock each other and allow the barest of slop up and down. I have used two nuts on my favourite controller for ages with no problems but by all means use a 2.5 mm Nylock nut instead if you wish.
5. The trick is that the trigger should only miss the base board by 0.5mm if you spin it, so careful with the notching in 1 and fine tune with thin washers if needed. Much more than a 0.8 mm gap and it will foul the case.
6. Bolt in the three 2.5 bolts for the stops and spring.
7. Now the part that requires some care – removing all the inside case pimples in the left case that would foul the board, along with opening both case sides in the trigger bolt area, so that the bolt and nuts just clear. I started with side cutters, followed by a Dremel with a 3mm drill bit for the trigger area and Dremel disk for completely cleaning off the pimple areas.
Erlo will quickly tell you that the 2.5mm bolt is a slop fit in the trigger tube but actually not much more than the standard economy frame and much less than the Ninco conversions from the old days. I would guess the spring pressure one way and the wiper pressure at 90 degrees actually keep things quite workable – time will tell.
The last step on the final template will be the two holes for mounting the wiper pad and obtaining the right size drill for the two large holes, my Dremel effort is ok but not that neat.
Lance also has some fancy Professor trigger bearing kits if one wanted to open the trigger hole and go for glory.
It also serves as a test for ultimate in simplicity, building the whole project with 2.5 mm nuts and bolts, a size at least easily available locally. The final product ended up such a perfect fit that it does not even need a bolt to hold it to the left hand case. The blow by blow, after the board is cut out with Dremel and drill:
1. Leave the existing brass tube in the trigger and simply Dremel out a notch at the bottom, including the brass tube, to allow just enough room for the anti wobble nut, which locks the 2.5 mm trigger bearing bolt to the base board.
2. Take two flaps off old braid holders and super glue one each to the front and rear of the trigger, where the trigger will contact the stops. Dead easy although I went a bit further with some nice K&S thin shim sheet from Denkit – cuts with a pair of scissors.
3. Fit the trigger bolt and any wobble nut and slip the trigger on. The tube top normally just a teeny bit longer than the width of the trigger.
4. Very carefully wind on two 2.5 nuts to lock each other and allow the barest of slop up and down. I have used two nuts on my favourite controller for ages with no problems but by all means use a 2.5 mm Nylock nut instead if you wish.
5. The trick is that the trigger should only miss the base board by 0.5mm if you spin it, so careful with the notching in 1 and fine tune with thin washers if needed. Much more than a 0.8 mm gap and it will foul the case.
6. Bolt in the three 2.5 bolts for the stops and spring.
7. Now the part that requires some care – removing all the inside case pimples in the left case that would foul the board, along with opening both case sides in the trigger bolt area, so that the bolt and nuts just clear. I started with side cutters, followed by a Dremel with a 3mm drill bit for the trigger area and Dremel disk for completely cleaning off the pimple areas.
Erlo will quickly tell you that the 2.5mm bolt is a slop fit in the trigger tube but actually not much more than the standard economy frame and much less than the Ninco conversions from the old days. I would guess the spring pressure one way and the wiper pressure at 90 degrees actually keep things quite workable – time will tell.
The last step on the final template will be the two holes for mounting the wiper pad and obtaining the right size drill for the two large holes, my Dremel effort is ok but not that neat.
Lance also has some fancy Professor trigger bearing kits if one wanted to open the trigger hole and go for glory.
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